1. [Home](/) 2. [Guides](/guides/) 3. Drains, sewer lines and basement backups # Drains, sewer lines and basement backups Most drain trouble starts small and gets worse slowly. Here is how clogs form, what older sewer lines go through in our soil and weather, and how to keep water out of your basement when it matters. ## Key takeaways - One slow fixture usually means a local clog. Several slow fixtures, or a gurgling basement drain, point to the main line. - Grease, wipes and paper products cause most avoidable clogs, and chemical drain cleaners often make a stubborn clog harder to deal with. - Older clay and cast iron sewer laterals are prone to root intrusion, and a camera inspection shows what is actually happening inside the pipe. - A tested sump pump with a backup power source is your first defense against spring storm flooding. - Sewage in a basement is a health hazard. Stay out of it and call a plumber. ## What causes clogs and slow drains Water drains because gravity pulls it through a pipe that slopes gently downhill. Anything that narrows the pipe slows the flow, and anything that catches on the pipe wall collects more of the same. A clog is rarely one big object. It is usually a build-up of grease, soap, hair and food that thickened over months until water had little room to pass. Where the slowdown shows up tells you a lot: - **One fixture is slow.** The problem is almost always in that fixture's trap or the short branch pipe behind it. A hair-packed tub drain or a kitchen sink with grease in the line fits this pattern. - **Several fixtures are slow, or one drain bubbles when another runs.** The blockage is probably further downstream, in the main drain or the sewer line leaving the house. - **The lowest drain in the house backs up first.** Water looks for the lowest opening. A basement floor drain or basement shower is often the first place a main line problem appears. Older homes add their own causes. Cast iron drain pipes roughen inside as they age, which gives debris something to catch on. Long horizontal runs with little slope, common in older additions and remodels, let solids settle instead of carrying them along. Water across much of Southwest Ohio is on the hard side, and the minerals add scale to the soap residue that already coats the pipe. For a closer look at everyday causes and what helps, read about [why drains keep clogging](/guides/drains-and-sewer-guide/why-drains-clog/). ## Grease, wipes and what stays out of the drain Kitchen grease is the most common avoidable cause. It leaves the pan as a liquid, cools inside the pipe, and sticks. Over time it traps food scraps and builds a thick lining. Hot water and dish soap only push it a little further down the line, where it cools and settles again. Let cooked grease cool, pour it into a can, put the can in the trash, and wipe greasy pans with a paper towel before washing. Wipes are the second big offender. A flushable label describes whether a wipe will go down a toilet, not whether it will break apart the way toilet paper does. Wipes stay intact, snag on rough spots and slightly offset joints, and twist together into ropes. The same goes for paper towels, cotton swabs, dental floss, feminine products and cat litter. Only human waste and toilet paper belong in a toilet. A garbage disposal grinds food, but that does not make the waste safe for your pipes. Coffee grounds, pasta, rice, potato peels and stringy vegetables such as celery pack together downstream. Run plenty of cold water while the disposal is on and for several seconds afterward. Chemical drain cleaners deserve caution. They are caustic, they can sit in a pipe without ever reaching the clog, and they are hazardous to the next person who opens the trap, whether that is you or a plumber. Never mix cleaning products, and tell your plumber if you have used one. ## Tree roots and older sewer laterals The sewer lateral is the pipe that carries everything from your house to the municipal sewer main, or to a septic system. In many older Southwest Ohio neighborhoods it is clay tile laid in short sections, with a joint every few feet. Clay lasts a long time, but joints can shift as clay-heavy soil swells when wet, shrinks when dry, and freezes and thaws through the winter. Homes from the mid-twentieth century may have cast iron instead, or a tar-and-fiber pipe sometimes called Orangeburg, which can soften and deform with age. Roots are drawn to the moisture and nutrients that seep out of a sewer line. A fine root slips into a joint or small crack, then grows into a mat that catches paper and solids. The pipe still drains, just more slowly, until one day it does not. Common signs include slow drains throughout the house, toilets that gurgle after the washing machine drains, a sewer smell in the basement or yard, and a clog that keeps coming back after it has been cleared. Roots are not always the whole story, because the same pipe may also be cracked, offset or sagging. A line that clears and then clogs again is a line that needs to be looked at. The guide on [tree roots in sewer lines](/guides/drains-and-sewer-guide/tree-roots-sewer-line/) covers the signs and the repair options in more detail. ## What a camera inspection shows A sewer camera inspection replaces guessing with a picture. A plumber feeds a small waterproof camera on a flexible cable into the line, usually through a cleanout, and watches the pipe on a monitor. Many plumbers record the video so you can see what they see. The camera can show roots, cracks, separated or offset joints, scale inside cast iron, and debris. It also shows a belly, which is a low spot where the pipe has sagged and holds water and waste. A locator on the camera head lets the plumber trace the pipe from above ground, so you learn how deep the problem is and where it sits relative to trees, the driveway or the street. That information decides whether a repair means a small excavation or something larger. The line usually has to be cleared first so the camera can see. An inspection is also worth doing before you buy an older house, after repeated backups, and after any cleaning that did not last. Find your cleanout before you need it. It is a capped pipe, often in the basement near the wall where the line leaves the house, or outside near the foundation. If you cannot find one, tell your plumber, since a house without an accessible cleanout is harder to service. ## Sump pumps and spring storms Much of Southwest Ohio sits on clay-rich soil that drains slowly. After a long wet stretch or a hard spring storm, water collects around the foundation and pushes toward the lowest part of the house. Many basements have a sump pit that gathers water from drain tile around the footing, and a pump that sends it outside. A sump pump only helps if it works on the day you need it. Test it by slowly pouring water into the pit until the float rises and the pump starts. It should run, empty the pit and shut off. Then check outside to confirm water is leaving the discharge pipe and moving away from the house. Storms often knock out power, which means the pump can stop at the moment the water is highest. A battery backup pump gives you a second source, and a generator can help too. Discharge lines can also freeze or clog in late winter and early spring, so check the outlet after cold snaps. The [sump pump basics](/guides/drains-and-sewer-guide/sump-pump-basics/) guide goes through testing, backups and warning signs step by step. ## Preventing basement backups Basements take on water in two different ways, and heavy rain can cause both. Groundwater seeps in through the floor and walls, which is sump pump territory. Sewage or wastewater comes up through floor drains and low fixtures, which is a sewer problem. In some neighborhoods, stormwater gets into sewer lines through cracked laterals or overloaded mains, and a backup follows. There are practical steps for each: - **Keep the line clear.** Keep grease, wipes and paper products out of the drain so the lateral has full capacity when a storm hits. - **Inspect older laterals.** If your house has clay, cast iron or fiber pipe, or you have had a backup before, a camera inspection shows how much life the line has left. - **Ask about a backwater valve.** This device lets wastewater leave but closes if flow reverses. It is not right for every house, and installation involves cutting into the line and following local code, so have a plumber explain whether it makes sense for yours. - **Manage roof and yard water.** Extend downspouts well away from the foundation and keep the soil sloping away from the house. Clay soil settles next to foundations over time, so regrade where it has sunk. - **Go easy during storms.** Hold off on laundry, the dishwasher and long showers while the ground is saturated and the sewer is under strain. - **Protect what is on the floor.** Keep valuables and boxes off the basement floor, especially near the floor drain. ## When to call a plumber Some drain problems are fine to try yourself. A plunger or a hand drain tool will clear many tub and sink clogs. Leave the following to a professional: - **Sewage in the basement.** It carries bacteria and is a health hazard. Keep children and pets out, do not walk through it, and stop using water in the house until it is dealt with. - **Standing water near electrical outlets, panels or appliances.** Do not wade into it. If you are unsure whether the power is safe, call an electrician or your utility. - **Backups in more than one fixture.** This points to the main line. - **A clog that returns.** Repeated clearing without a camera look rarely solves the cause. - **Any pipe that has been treated with chemical cleaner.** Tell the plumber before they open it. If you smell gas, leave the house and call your gas utility from outside. That is a separate emergency from a drain problem. For a collapsed, cracked or root-filled lateral, see how [sewer line repair](/services/sewer-line-repair/) options are typically approached, and ask any plumber to show you the camera footage before agreeing to a plan. ## Frequently asked questions Is it normal for a basement floor drain to back up in heavy rain? It is common, but it is not something to ignore. It can mean the sewer lateral has cracks letting in stormwater, the line is partly blocked, or the municipal sewer is overloaded. A camera inspection and a conversation with your local sewer authority can sort out which. How do I tell whether the problem is in my line or the city main? The homeowner is typically responsible for the lateral from the house to the connection at the main, though rules vary by municipality. If the backup is in your house only and a camera shows a problem in your pipe, it is yours to fix. If neighbors are having the same trouble, contact your local sewer department. Does homeowners insurance cover sewer backups? Coverage varies by policy. Sewer or water backup is often a separate endorsement rather than part of a standard policy, so read your policy or ask your insurance agent before a problem happens. Can I clear a main sewer line clog myself? A small hand auger may move a light clog, but a main line often needs a longer, more powerful machine and a camera to see what is causing the blockage. Working in a line that may be full of sewage also carries health risks, so most homeowners are better off calling a plumber. 7 min read. ### Want us to handle it? Pete the Plumber works in Lebanon, Mason, Maineville, Waynesville, Springboro, Liberty Township, Deerfield, Cincinnati. [Get a quote](/contact/)[Call 513.934.3884](tel:+15139343884) ### In this guide - [Why Drains Keep Clogging (and What Actually Helps)](/guides/drains-and-sewer-guide/why-drains-clog/) - [Tree Roots in Sewer Lines: Signs and Fixes](/guides/drains-and-sewer-guide/tree-roots-sewer-line/) - [Sump Pump Basics for Ohio Basements](/guides/drains-and-sewer-guide/sump-pump-basics/) ### Related services - [Drain Cleaning](/services/drain-cleaning/) - [Sump Pumps](/services/sump-pumps/) - [Sewer Line Repair](/services/sewer-line-repair/) ### Service areas - [Lebanon](/areas/lebanon/) - [Mason](/areas/mason/) - [Maineville](/areas/maineville/) - [Waynesville](/areas/waynesville/) - [Springboro](/areas/springboro/) - [Liberty Township](/areas/liberty-township/) - [Deerfield](/areas/deerfield/) - [Cincinnati](/areas/cincinnati/) ### Other guides - [Water heaters in Southwest Ohio homes](/guides/water-heater-guide/) - [Leaks, frozen pipes and water pressure](/guides/leaks-and-pipes-guide/) ## Call us at 513.934.3884 or send a quote request and tell us what you need done. [Get a quote](/contact/) [Call 513.934.3884](tel:+15139343884) --- **Pete the Plumber** · 760 Columbus Ave, Lebanon, OH 45036 · 513.934.3884 · peteplumb@yahoo.com [Get a quote](/contact/) · [Services](/services/) · [Guides](/guides/) · [FAQ](/faq/)